Dan’s Pets

One common misconception about pet birds is that they live for hundreds of years and need to be willed to someone in order to ensure their care after you're gone. While birds do live for quite a long time in the wild, their lifespan in captivity is actually much shorter. Below are some common pet birds and their average life span in captivity given that they receive superior care and a proper diet.

Macaw - 50 years

Cockatoo - 40 years

African Grey - 25 years

Amazon Parrot - 50 years

Conure - 15 years

Parakeet - 15 years

Parrotlet - 15 years

Lovebird - 10 years

Canary - 15 years

Finch - 5 years

Certainly with a lifespan of 50 years, a bird could outlive you however there are many hidden dangers lurking around that can cut your birds life short. Birds are very fragile and need to be cared for properly in order for them to live a long life.

Here are some things you can do to help keep your bird safe and healthy:

One major danger for birds as fumes from chemical products. Aerosol sprays, Teflon pans and even such things as furniture polish can kill your bird. Keep anything that has a strong odor away from your bird and make sure you use it in a well ventilated area. I suggest you get rid of all your Teflon pants however if you insist on keeping them make sure your bird is nowhere near the kitchen when you're cooking with them and also be sure not to heat them up without food in them as this will cause the Teflon to emit more odor.

Pet birds love to chew on things and will in fact chew on anything they can find whether it's good for them or not. It's important not to let them chew on anything that is welded as they can get lead poisoning from the slaughter in the joints. They also will love your household plants and will nibble on them so you need to be sure that any plants you have are not poisonous to birds.

Birds love to eat fresh fruits and vegetables but you need to take care not to leave the fruits and vegetables out too long or they can start to rot. Just like you wouldn't feed a piece of pineapple that was sitting on the counter for three hours to your family, you shouldn't be this to your bird either. Something should never be offered to birds as food such as coffee chocolate and avocado as these are toxic to our feathered friends.

The holidays pose a special threat to birds as they may want to fly into your tree and chew on it. You need to be very careful with this, however as many trees are sprayed with stuff that is toxic to birds. In addition, the ornaments, tinsel and electric lights might seem attractive to your pet bird but, of course, could be very dangerous for him to chew on.

Birds that are allowed to fly around the house can be fun but you need to think of safety first if your bird does not have clipped wings and has free reign to fly wherever he wants. Obviously, you want to make sure your windows are closed so that he cannot get out. In addition, you probably want to pull down the shades or close the curtains when your birds flying around as you don't want him to fly into the closed window and hurt himself. If you cannot do this, then put some decals on the glass so that your bird will know not to fly into it. The same goes for Mariners or any reflective surface. This is very important as your bird can actually break his neck by flying into them.

Another thing to be careful of is standing water such as water in the sink or toilet you don't want your bird to get in over his head and drown!

Please refrain from cooking while your bird is flying around as you don't want him to win on the stove and burn himself.

Finally, make sure that you do not answer the door while your birds perched on your shoulder. Even a bird with clipped wings could get away in an updraft and their many dangers outdoors such as cats and cars that can harm your bird.

Feeding your bird a nutritious diet and keeping him safe may not ensure that he outlives you but it will go a long way to making sure that he has a long healthy and happy life!

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I recommend changing 20% of your aquarium water once per week (best) or at least 25%+ once per month (minimum). With good filtration and plants (live rock in marine aquaria), you often can go longer than once per week. Use a de-chlorinator such as Start Right or Prime (Prime also detoxifies ammonia and nitrites) while refilling your aquarium if tap water is used. All de-chlorinators work instantly usually comprised of Sodium Thiosulfate. Please read more about cleaning frequency further in this article.

Steps:

*Make sure and wipe down the sides of the aquarium with an aquarium scrubber that is used ONLY for the aquarium to avoid contamination. Try and remove unsightly algae and especially any slime or mold (rinse this off in a sink)

*Use this time to change filter media that NEEDS changing, do NOT go overboard and change all media or you risk destroying your aquarium's bacterial colonies needed for removal of ammonia, nitrites, ECT. HOB filters should have a second filter cartridge either in the filter or in the water column of the aquarium to allow for bacteria to form on this new cartridge before replacing the old one. If your HOB Filter has a sponge, bio grid (such as a VitaLife HOB filter, or bio wheel; you only need to rinse these off in de-chlorinated tap or used tank water and there is no need to prepare a second cartridge before changing the old one.

*At this point you should change your water using a gravel vacuum, siphon, or similar method. For more about methods of water change, please read further in this article.

Frequency (Expanded); Use these factors to determine frequency:

*Type of fish, such as fish that naturally produce more waste (partly do to the type of food they eat) such as goldfish where one fish per 8+ gallons is better. Also a large and dirty fish such as an Oscar is another good example.

*Filtration, a properly filtered aquarium (good bio filtration, good mechanical filtration, and good circulation) with multiple filters is important.

*Well maintained water chemistry (including kH and Redox)

*After proper feeding, good cleaning routines (20% water changes with a gravel vacuum once per week or two), proper feeding routines, good filtrations; If after all these are checked off and you still have nitrates that struggle to stay below 40-50 ppm (20 ppm for saltwater), you probably need to change more water or increase frequency and/or efficiency (especially if there are live plants!). Also a kH and pH that starts out at proper levels, but then drops quickly after water changes and/or addition of stabilizing chemicals or products such as Wonder Shells can indicate poor cleaning routines (as well as other problems such as mulm buildup).

For more about nitrates and the aquarium nitrogen cycle: Nitrogen Cycle and Aquarium Cycling; How the Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle Works

For cleaning your aquarium (freshwater or saltwater) a Gravel Vacuum attached to a siphon or re-circulating filter works best. If you have a planted aquarium, I recommend #00 sand (3-5 cm) mixed with Azoo Plant Grower Bed, Eco-Complete, laterite or conditioned soil with #3 gravel (2-3 cm) on top. You should not vacuum the sand, as this will tend to be sucked all the way thru the vacuum, and this will also disturb the natural aerobic and symbiotic anaerobic filtration going on in the substrate being performed by the plant roots and nearby bacteria. If the sand must be vacuumed, very gently push the bell of the vacuum into the sand and quickly back out, kinking the hose with your other hand to slow the out flow to keep sand from being sucked up. You can drain this water into a bucket or attach the siphon to a long hose and drain it outside or into a toilet using gravity. There are other products that hook on to the sink, but these are over rated in my opinion and waste water. It is simpler to just get a long hose and get an adapter and attach your hose to the sick to fill, but drain your water into a garden where it will do some good (unless it is saltwater of coarse). If you do need this type of product you can make a DIY model with a Lee's Gravel Vac, a garden hose, a faucet adapter from a local Hardware Store, and a water bed pump/drain. Lee's also makes one that is less expensive than the Python and is exactly the same.

I prefer to leave the fish in during this process, as I feel more stress is added to the fish removing them and then placing the fish back in new water conditions that the fish are not accustomed to. Add water back slowly, and if tap water is used make sure the temperature is similar to the aquarium water already present in the aquarium, you can generally safely add warm tap water to correct this. Although in the Marine aquariums I maintained, I brought my own water and it was invariably colder than the aquarium, but this does not present as much of a problem as many think. If you do some math; Say your aquarium is 78 F and you add 20% water back that is 68 F, that is 1/5th the volume, so 1/5th of a 10 F difference is only 2 F. What is more important is adding a de-chlorinator to your tap water (if tap water is used) WHILE the water is being added. I prefer Start Right, this product removes chlorine (and the chlorine ions attached ammonia in chloramines), removes heavy metals, and very importantly naturally stimulates the slime coat in fish vs. products that drop an artificial wad of slime into the aquarium that generally sinks to the bottom anyway.

In some successful aquarium keeping traditions (especially in Germany), no vacuuming is performed. Water is simply siphoned out of the aquarium and new water is carefully added back in. For this method to be successful in fresh water aquariums, you need a healthy growth of plants, good lighting, a thin layer of sand just enough to cover plant roots (not gravel). Good aerobic filtration is also a must.

Other methods include powered gravel vacuums such as the Aquarium Cleaning Machine

For my full article, please follow the link in my resource box:

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The Black clownfish (Amphiprion clarkii) is also known as Clarkii clownfish and Yellowtail clown fish, and can be obtained in several colour variations. The most common form of Black clownfish is black and yellow with white vertical stripes. Just like the other clownfishes, These fish form a symbiotic relationship with anemones and are therefore also known as Black anemonefishes.

The Black clownfish is one of the most frequently kept clownfish species and you can find these fishes in numerous saltwater aquariums all over the world. It's native region is the warm Indo-West Pacific Ocean. Populations are found from the Persian Gulf to the Western coast of Australia. They inhabit the Indo-Australian archipelago, the many reefs of Melanesia and Micronesia, and you can also find them up to north Taiwan and south Japan.

The vibrant coloration of the fish makes it very easy to spot for predators, and it would not survive long in the wild if it was not protected by the tentacles of the stinging anemone. The Black clownfish will keep the anemone clean by eating left over food. When kept in an aquarium without any natural enemies and is provided with food by the aquarists, it does not need an anemone to survive. You should however make sure that the aquarium set up provides it with suitable hiding spots, since it can be very stressed in a barren aquarium, especially when no anemone can be found.

In the wild, these fish known to co-habit with a wide range of different anemone species. If you keep your fish with an anemone species that it has not encountered before, the Black clownfish must gradually acclimatize itself to the anemone to avoid begin injured. Examples of anemone species that Black clownfish are known to appreciate in the wild are Stichodactyla mertensii, Stichodactyla haddoni, Stichodactyla gigantean, Macrodactyla doreensis, Heteractis malu, Heteractis magnifica, Heteractis crispa, Heteractis aurora, Entacmaea quadricolor and Cryptodendrum adhaesivum.

The Black clownfish can be kept in a comparatively small aquarium since it grows no bigger than 5 inches (13 centimetres) and claims a very small territory. A 20 gallon (75 litres) aquarium will be enough. You should however keep in mind that it requires supreme water quality and keeping the levels of soluble waste down will be much easier in a bigger aquarium. In the wild, the territory of a Black clownfish group is limited to the immediate area around an anemone. It is however known to occasionally leave its host anemone to attack nearby fish. This habit makes it more aggressive than the other clownfish species.

Since the Black clownfish is native to warm, tropical parts of the world it can only be kept in tropical aquariums. The temperature must be in the 75-82 F (24-28 C) range for it to do well. The pH should be around 8.3-8.4.

Your Black clownfish should be provided with a meaty diet in the aquarium, since it is used to feeding on the scraps left by the predatory anemone. Chopped fish and shellfish is usually appreciated. It will also require some vegetables and algae to stay healthy. You can usually get them to accept flake food, but keeping it on nothing but flakes is not recommended.

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Nobody likes surprises, so it's always nice to know what to expect when you take you're pet to the veterinarian. A good physical exam usually begins by weighing and recording so that a continuing record can be formed. An increase or decrease in weight can indicate a problem. Next, the temperature is taken, usually rectally with a normal temperature of 101 to 102.5 degrees for both dogs and cats.

Coat and skin are examined next as poor hair coat or skin can indicate a poor diet or dermatological infection. Coat should be shiny, not brittle and coarse, and the skin, clean and not greasy. While handling your pet, the bones, muscles, and joints, nails, feet, and lymph nodes are checked for any abnormalities. The chest, heart, and lungs are examined with a stethoscope, along with the rate and nature of respiration.

At the head, both ears are examined deep into the ear canal for infections. The visible eye structure and lids are examined and the interior of the eye is checked for cataract formation, and an examination of the mouth and throat for infected gums, loose teeth, tartar buildup on the teeth and any damage or swelling in the throat.

Lastly, at the rear, the anus, anal glands, prepuce/penis or vcalva are checked for any abnormalities, and the anal glands cleaned if they are compacted. During the examination the vet will usually ask the name of your pet's food and any other treats or vitamin supplements, along with any medication you may have given your pet.

A fecal sample will be taken for examination to check for intestinal parasites, such as hookworm and roundworm, and a blood test may be recommended if heartworm is suspected. No checkup would be complete without a flea and tick prevention/treatment with a choice as to who will administer the treatment, you or the vet. While the exam may sound involved and complicated, the entire process usually only takes about 30 minutes and guarantees your pet a healthier happier life.

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Veterinarians tell us that hyperthyroidism is very common type of hormonal disorder seen in older cats, and even some middle aged cats. This occurs when the thyroid glands began producing large amounts of thyroid hormones. Often this happens as a result of a benign thyroid tumor (adenoma); however, vets do not know what causes the tumor to develop in cats.

For informational purposes, thyroid glands are paired glands located in the neck and they secrete thyroid hormone. Thyroid hormone is important because it controls metabolic rate of an animal. Cats with hyperthyroidism have an increased metabolic rate, and thus they tend to use up excessive amounts of energy within their bodies. This means that your cat may be eating more and always hungry, but still seems to be losing weight. This is one of the most common clinical signs of hyperthyroidism. Some other signs may include a patchy hair coat and hyperactivity. The onset of this disease is usually very slow, and signs are usually not recognized until they are severe. Sometimes, the hyperthyroid state can exist for months to years before becoming severe enough for the owner to recognize the clinical signs.

Many times, a veterinarian can feel a nodule in your cat's neck where the thyroid gland is located. This is usually indicates your cat has hyperthyroidism. The diagnosis can be confirmed by testing the T4 (thyroid hormone) levels in your cat's blood.

If your cat is diagnosed with hyperthyroidism, there are treatment options: There is medical treatment, surgical removal of the thyroid, or radioactive iodine treatments.

With medical management, this consists of the administration of anti-thyroid hormone drugs. However, this will not cure the disease but will provide for long term control of the disorder. These drugs will probably have to be administered twice daily for the rest of your cat's life.

With surgical thyroidectomy, this involves the removal of the affected parts of the thyroid glands, and this can result in a permanent cure–but there can be complications. As with any surgery, there is always a risk with anesthesia. Hyperthyroidism can recur if some of the remaining thyroid tissue becomes hyperactive. A common secondary complication of surgery is accidental removal of part or all of the parathyroid glands which are small glands sitting next to the thyroid glands; and this results in a hypoparathyroid state. This can result in transient hypocalcemia that may need to be treated for a few weeks or months.

Radioactive iodine is the last treatment option. This works because the thyroid gland takes up the iodine whereas no other body tissue does this; and the iodine kills all of the affected thyroid tissue. All other body tissues are spared and this can be a cure as it does not have any major side effects for the cat. Not, however, this must be performed in a facility licensed to handle radioactive substances. A university teaching hospital is a common place to perform this. Also, an extended hospital stay for your cat is usually required. Most of the excess radioactive iodine is eliminated in the cat's urine. The cat is kept in isolation until most of the radioactivity has been eliminated.

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The formidable Tosa Inu is a dog that was bred by the Japanese to feed their desire for a very large and courageous silent fighting dog for the ring sport of pit fighting. The Japanese do not like to lose and when they opened their borders in 1854 and foreign European dogs began to enter the ring and the Japanese were being consistently beaten, they put their breeding expertise to work to produce the Tosa Inu. This breed was perfected from a combination of the Mastiff, the Bulldog, the Bullterrier, The German Pointer, the Great Dane and the indigenous fighting dogs already present in Japan, such as the Akita. The Tosa when trained properly is no different in temperament than any of the breeds which were used in its development….all of them are solidly gentle and affable towards people. The Tosa because of its thick skin and naturally heavy coat has a high tolerance for pain as do most of the dogs bred to be used in the sport of dog fighting. And the Tosa because of the breeds used in its development will not stand down when confronted although usually will not be overly aggressive unless confronted.

The rules of the pit ring in Japan require that the dog be a silent and steadfast fighter and the Tosa Inu lives up to that admirably, never giving in and continuing to fight to the death if necessary without uttering a sound or a bark of any kind. However fighting to the death is not part of the Japanese ritual of dog fighting and seldom occurs for the dogs are pitted together and judged on various standards which are nearly as stringent as the standards required of the Samurai swordsmen….the fight is discontinued after a period of time and points are awarded to the winning dogs with much pageantry and acclaim. The sport of dog fighting in Japan has precise rules and it is stylized nearly as much as the Sumo wrestling events. The Tosa Inu is considered to be the "Sumo" fighting dog of Japan, being large and powerful and persistent. Tradition requires that the Tosa Inu be led into the ring between two human handlers rather than just one as are most of the other breeds and it is possible that both people are actually needed for the Tosa Inu is a very strong and powerful breed. In weight pulls a single dog has been known to pull as much as 3,800 pounds.

The Tosa Inu is not a breed for everyone. It goes without saying that any dog that is that large and that formidable as an adult needs proper bringing up as a puppy. They are naturally a dog aggressive breed but should never be aggressive without provocation. They are affectionate and gentle with their human families and are loyal yet quite tolerant of strangers if brought up correctly. Unfortunately there have been instances where Tosas have been bred irresponsibly and sold to owners who desire to use them as guard dogs or attack dogs and who do not posses knowledge and skill in training such dogs. This has led to some serious problems and ownership of Tosas is outlawed in some parts of the world because of these incidents.

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We all want a great looking Betta that won't die on us after just a few days. Here's a quick guide to help you find that healthy Betta.

First of all, make sure it's alive! I can't count the number of times I've seen dead Betta's sitting on pet store shelves.

Body

Look for bumps, or lumps of any kind anywhere on the body. A healthy Betta has smooth scales along its body. Any loose or missing scales are signs of sickness or previous trauma. A swollen stomach is also a clear sign of a sick Betta. If you notice any white patches anywhere on the body you're probably seeing fungus.

Fin and Gills

Although this may sometimes be difficult to tell at the pet store where many Betta's are stored in tiny bags or boxes, take a look at the fish's fins and gills. Betta fins should be able to expand fully with no holes, discolorations, or tears.

The Gills should be smooth with no discoloration or lumps.

Behavior

Bring your hand toward the Betta, without taping the bowl or poking the bag the betta is stored in, but just close enough and make sure the Betta is alert. Healthy Betta's are alert and react to your movements. They may or may not flare at your movements.

Color

Unhealthy Betta's appear pale in color and may have discoloration along their face or body.

Keep in mind that this is only a guide. It's important to remember that a healthy Betta will only stay healthy if you treat it right. After you purchase that Betta it's up to you to keep it healthy, otherwise, your new Betta will end up on a magical journey down the toilet.

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The Irish Setter is an active, lovable dog. She is full of spirit and needs plenty of exercise. She is a watch dog but not a guard dog. She can get along with other dogs but it is best if she is socialized with other pets early on. She is patient with children. As a reminder, never leave a child unsupervised with a puppy or dog.

*Approximate Adult Size. The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the male Irish Setter is 26 to 28 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder) and 65 to 75 pounds. The female ranges from 24 to 26 inches to the withers and 55 to 65 pounds.

*Special Health Considerations. Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the Irish Setter is no exception. Be on the look out for severe skin problems, epilepsy (common in dogs), Canine Hip Dysplasia (genetic based looseness in the hip joint that can lead to arthritis pain and lameness), bloat (Gastric Dilation-Volvulus, the second leading killer of dogs, can kill within the hour, this space is too limited for a complete explanation but you should read up on this). Feeding more then once a day and avoiding exercise right after meals may help guard against bloat, Progressive Retinal Atrophy (inherited disease of the retina that can cause vision loss and blindness), and hypothyroidism (sluggish thyroid gland which can result in weight gain). This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.

She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.

*Grooming. The Irish Setter has a moderate length soft and flat coat that sheds average. She should be brushed regularly. Brushing will help her maintain a clean and healthy coat, avoid mats and help you keep a closer eye on her health and strengthen your emotional bond with her.

Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.

Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet. Generally a guillotine type trimmer is the best for this chore and competent instructions to accomplish this can be found on the net.

*Life Span. The Irish Setter can live between 12 and 14 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.

*History. The Irish Setter comes from Ireland where they are possibly a cross between setters, pointers and spaniels. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1878.

Some Registries:

*UKC United Kennel Club

*NKC National Kennel Club

*CKC Continental Kennel Club

*APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.

*AKC American Kennel Club

*FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale

*NZKC New Zealand Kennel Club

*KCGB = Kennel Club of Great Britain

*ANKC = Australian National Kennel Club

*ACR = American Canine Registry

Litter Size: 7 to 8 Irish Setter puppies

Category: Gundog, Sporting Group

Terms To Describe: Active, swift, sweet, trainable, aristocratic, balance, outgoing, stable, intelligent

*SPECIAL GOOD POINTS

Very good watch dog.

A non aggressive dog.

Easy to housebreak.

*SPECIAL BAD POINTS

They have a mind of their own.

Very poor watch dog.

Can be hard to train.

Can be a bit flighty.

Will roam if not controlled.

Needs activity and exercise.

*Other Names Known By: Red Setter

*Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.

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Just like a baby who needs utmost attention and care, the acquisition of the best supplies for your dog needs some major consideration, too. Here's how you can ensure that your beloved pet gets the best toys, food, and other necessities.

Dog Food and Treats

Your dog's needs should be the emphasis when considering what food or treat to buy him. The proper balance of vitamins and minerals should be given, particularly to growing puppies. Sporting and working dog breeds need to eat something that will sustain their hyperactive lifestyle. Dogs that aren't getting any younger need low-calorie food to avoid weight gain. Don't scrimp on the budget here no matter how compelling it might be. A healthy dog is reflected by the food he eats.

Dog Leashes and Collars

The size and weight of the dog should be taken into account in choosing the right dog collar. The collar's material needs attention too. Nylon is good for water-loving dogs since it is more durable and light. For a tougher look, leather collars are a lot better since they are more durable and can even be accessorized with spikes.

Dog leashes come in cloth, nylon, retractable, and leather styles.

Dog Toys

The safety of your dog should be the top priority in looking for a dog toy. What fun could be derived from a toy if it will endanger your pet's life, right? A dog toy should be large enough so that it can't be swallowed by your pet. However, it should be small enough for your dog to be able to grip it well.

The durability of the toys will need major consideration too, especially for dogs that are serious chewers. Light chewers can settle for vinyl and latex dog toys.

Training Guides for Your Dog

Dog whistles, dog harnesses and bitter-tasting sprays compose the wide array of dog-training guides that will keep a dog from chewing. If the chewing problem is a lot more serious, one may use a dog bark collar or an electric fence. It is advised that one stays consistent and humane in training his or her dog. Dog training books may also be availed for this endeavor.

Dog Health Items

Tick and flea infestation control medications are available to ensure that your dog's health is secured against these pests. Brands like Advantix, Advantage and Frontline are some of the popular flea and tick drugs in the market.

Your dog's dental health should never be taken for granted either. Dog toothbrushes and toothpastes, and even dog toys are now made available to support the dental health of your pet.

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*One on one personalized service with no interruptions of answering the phones, checking out other clients while you wait.

*You have your own personalized groomer, there is no guessing on who worked on your dog.

*A quiet relaxed environment for both you and your dog, no barking dogs in the background.

*This service is great for the anxious pet who does not want to leave their home.

*With mobile dog grooming your pet can see their home while being groomed, which is an added comfort.

*Your pet is never placed in cages for hours and maybe forgotten about.

*Therefore no cage dryers are ever used which can be loud, hot and detrimental to their life.

Mobile dog grooming is not for everyone! Some pet owners need to leave their dogs all day at the shop while they are at work.

Pricing is typically higher when you use a mobile groomer verses a shop, anything mobile you pay more money for. Dog groomers must charge more for their services than human hair stylists do. Dogs have hair all over their body, face and feet. Whereas humans only grow hair in one place that needs to be cut, on their head. How many people do you ever see that try to bite, scratch, move around uncontrollably and urinate all while getting their haircut. Sometimes dog grooming is like trying to jog along someone while trying to cut their hair.

What a lot of the new pet owners do not realize when picking a new furry family member is; how much time, love, money and effort they are personally going to have to invest in this relationship with their new dog. If you adopt a cute puppy such as a Shih Tzu or Lhasa Apso, which are both double coated breeds you must understand they are high maintenance breeds.

If you do not keep up on brushing their hair daily or at least 4-5 times per week, you will have a matted mooch that will end up costing you more money for a shave down. When their hair gets so matted you cant even brush them. You will not be happy with the outcome of this cut either, the coat of hair they once had which was long and full is now all gone. You dog is naked now, not a pretty site to see.

Bad matt's in the dogs hair can cause numerous health problems; clipper burns from the razor getting too hot from slicing through the matt's. Which is very uncomfortable for your dog. Skin infections if the matt's are bad enough to not let the skin breath, you most likely would not be able to see this, since the skin is covered with matted hair.

The worst problem with having to have your dog shaved down, especially if they are used to having longer hair is it can be a humiliating experience for them especially if you draw attention to it. Making statements like; "you look so funny", Yes, they do have feelings too! Have you ever seen them hide under the bed so nobody can see them.

Have your dog groomed on a regular bases. Depending on your dogs habits such as; do they mostly stay outside of the house, when you let them out to play do they like to get into the dirt, trash, etc. If your groomer uses a mild enough ph made especially for dogs they can be bathed more frequently.

The most important factor in finding a Mobile Dog Groomer who should make this a positive memorable experience that your little or big one will not only forget but look forward to future services. Make certain your groomer has the correct positive attitude beforehand.

Ask some important questions, such as; Do you love dogs, do you enjoy your career or is this just another job. Last but not least are they a patient person with animals as well as with people.

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